pisa-lucca---day 2 {travelogue}

saturday in florence

is like saturday in any city

locals pouring into town to do their weekend shopping

tourists milling about in large groups

staring upwards

just an all around

crowded situation

which is why

we got out of town

pisa and lucca the destination

turns out
it wasn't such a bad idea
the weather had turned runny
just as we took our seats on the excursion bus
rain began pouring down
(that really isn't its name...i don't know what the name was, except that it was one of those total tourist deals...which turn out to be a pretty good thing, actually)

i never think i am a fan of the organized tourist train/bus/walk
but i nearly always give them a try
i am hardly disappointed
except when it  includes food
which is a big bad bust
most of the time

those, i avoid
because
as you know
i am all about the food

speaking of which
we had steak and eggs for breakfast
but there are no photos
because i forgot
and by the time i remembered
it didn't look so appetizing
just trust me
leftover bistecca fiorentina
with a couple of fried eggs
and hunk of bread
is money

in Pisa
we did a tour of the church
which is beautiful
but dark
which is why i don't have any good photos
because in churches
you can't wear a hat
and
you can't use a flash

the real draw in Pisa
is the tower
a leaning tower
i love all the great photos that people fashion
holding the tower up
grimacing under the supposed weight
they never cease to humor me
but you rarely see this maneuver

someone kicking the darn thing over
but it is funny
right?
that is my husband
who enjoys a good laugh as much as i
we hooted over this one for hours

time for lunch
but in a tourist town
where restaurants actually name themselves
restaurant tourista
getting a good meal is a bit dubious
but we found one
just outside the main tourist area
called
trattoria bruno

(no identity crisis here)

the pasta outstanding
truly
hubs had

penne with rabbit and boar sauce
and i enjoyed

pasta with porcini mushrooms
the pasta was handmade
and so thin
you could almost see yourself through the sheets

simple yet delicious

from Pisa
we got back on the bus and headed to Lucca
a medieval city
that is usually quite lovely
but on a rainy saturday
with many of the venues closed for the afternoon
there was little to see

after getting a bit drenched in the rain
we stopped for a hot chocolate
which in this part of italy
is more like
warm chocolate pudding
than chocolate water
you decide if it sounds better or not

e poi
(which means and then
not the poi you eat in hawaii
which is not italian by any means
despite having the same name)

we visited a winery just outside of lucca
where
it turns out
they make the house wine
for one of my favorite places in New York City
Sant. Ambroeus
when i was getting married
my dress came from vera wang
and before my first appointment
and subsequently
my fittings
i would go have
coffee and a little something
at
sant ambroeus
 so when the proprietor of this winery in lucca
off-handedly mentioned the restaurant
i perked up with
on madison avenue!?!
she and i had a bonding moment
it is her brother's place
and all the "house wine" comes from here

 it is pretty good
a tasty drinkable wine
i was set to buy quite a bit
but then my new friend
(the owner)
gave me the name of their american distributor
so i wouldn't have to pay for shipping
which now means
i'll probably buy a whole case
ahh
those italians
so crafty!

after the wine and the food and the travel by bus
we were pretty wiped out
without plans for dinner

we grabbed a quick porchetta sandwich
and called it a night
actually
a night and half a day
since jet lag reared its ugly head
and we slept
about 12 hours
waking up just in time
to search out lunch....

poblano macaroni and cheese {cooking from the homesick texan}

i grew up in

a waspy neighborhood

too rude?

perhaps i should say

well heeled

cotillion on tuesday

types

how we landed there

i 

do 

not 

know

a

bronx bred
italian family

moving in

must have been quite the shocker

a very dark man

(my father)

doing his own landscaping

seemed to be

equally disturbing

i tell you this

so you'd understand

it wasn't until my thirteenth year

that i discovered macaroni and cheese

while babysitting

mrs. ran me through the schedule

bath, bedtime

no tv

no prank calls

and for dinner?
i queried

pointing to

a little blue box on the counter

she said

the girls love macaroni and cheese

...out it came

in my not so soft voice

lilting to a question

is that what is in the box?

to which

i got the look

it made me feel

unamerican

it. is. true.

i didn't know

macaroni and cheese

came in a blue box

to me

macaroni

was a big plate of pasta

meatballs and sausage

cheese came in wheels, grated tableside

i think she felt sorry for me

fast forward more than 30 years

in of which

i have eaten 

many a mac n' cheese

boxed 

from scratch

scroxed

none being

a healthy eat

this one

however

uses

the fresh bite of citrus and cilantro

combined with the warmth

of 

poblano and cayenne

to cut through the dull sludge

of

gobs of  gooey dairy

which most macaroni and cheese recipes

hide behind

thus

wrapping this fabulous meal

in the illusion

of 

spa food

  *This post is part of The Homesick Texan Cookbook Spotlight and Cook-Off sponsored by Hyperion and hosted at girlichef

  poblano macaroni and cheese

8 servings

(printable recipe)

2 poblano chiles

8 oz (2 cups) elbow macaroni

2 Tbs unsalted butter

4 cloves garlic--minced

2 Tbs all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups whole milk

1 tsp mustard powder

1/4 tsp cayenne

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp lime zest

1/2 cup cilantro--chopped

salt and black pepper to taste

4 cups (12 oz) grated white cheddar cheese

1/2 cup cojita cheese--for serving

roast the poblano chiles under the broiler until blackened, about 5 minutes per side.  place chiles in a paper sack or plastic food-storage bag, close it tightly, and let the chiles steam for 20 minutes.  take the chiles out of the bag and rub off the skin. remove stem and seeds and chop the chiles into 1" long pieces

bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the pasta.  cook according to your package's directions and then drain the pasta.  (you want the pasta to be cooked but not mushy; i cook my pasta 5 minutes.)

preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  grease a large baking dish or cast iron skillet, and pour the drained pasta into the dish.

in a pot (you can use the pot the pasta cooked in or you can do this while the pasta boils), on low heat melt the butter. add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. whisk in the flour and cook until a light brown, toasty paste is formed, about 1 minute.  whisk in the milk and stir until it's thickened a bit but still fluid, about 1 to 2 minutes. remove the pot from the heat and stir in the mustard powder, cayenne, cumin, lime zest, cilantro and chopped poblano chiles. adjust seasonings and add salt and black pepper.

slowly add half of the cheddar cheese and stir until it's melted and well combined into the sauce.  (if the sauce has cooled too much and the cheese won't melt, return the pot to low heat on the stove.  if, however, the sauce gets too thick, like a custard, you can then thin it by stirring in milk, a teaspoon at a time.)  pour sauce over pasta and top with the remaining half of the cheddar cheese and bake uncovered for 20 minutes or until brown and bubbling. sprinkle with cojita cheese, and serve immediately.

lemon-chevre ravioli

i have been making homemade pasta for as long as i can remember

growing up

 as summer arrived

so would my grandparents

both sets

heavily ladened with luggage

and lessons

my grandparents were old school italians

"the grandpops" sat on the sun porch

playing cards and tending to the vegetable garden planted each year

(zucchini flowers were a must have every summer)

and the "grans" would sit at the kitchen table

compiling lists of what would be needed for the evening supper

pasta

always a side dish

always

homemade

we would make it several times each summer

filling our bellies and the freezer

the dining room

became

pasta central

a table only used at christmas

 in a room that appeared hermetically sealed

would become

a work bench,  covered in flour

we'd spend hours

kneading

rolling 

cutting

and 

drying

our summer staple

it must be said

we never used 00 flour

the type used for pasta in many regions of italy

it was hard to find

and expensive

we used what we had on hand

it was delicious

my grandparents have all passed

and with them

many of  the summer traditions

we all enjoyed

but

i still make pasta

in small quantities

with the same equipment

as generations past

however

it is abundantly less shocking

to see my dining room

littered with flour

and covered in pasta

sometimes i use 00 flour

when i have it on hand

but mostly

i use a high quality cake flour

which works beautifully for a delicate pasta

like this lemon pasta 

used to make chevre ravioli

not quite how nonna would do it

but delicious

none
the
less

lemon-chevre ravioli

(printable recipe)

for the pasta

3 cups cake flour (i use king arthur)

5 extra large eggs

2 tsp finely grated lemon peel

place the flour in a mound on your work bench.  using your fist, make a large well in the center of the mound. 

Using the fork, bring the flour into the eggs to begin forming a dough. Continue bringing the flour in until you have a sticky mixture.  Begin working the rest of the flour in by hand and knead for at least 10 minutes, and until you have a very smooth dough.  The dough must be very smooth and well kneaded before leaving it to rest for 10 minutes or up to an hour at room temperature.  Cover the dough with plastic or a towel or something to discourage a "skin" from forming.  When ready, use a bit of flour so the dough does not stick and roll very thin.  cut in desired shape(s)

for the filling

5 oz chevre--room temperature

3 oz cream cheese--room temperature

1/2 tsp garlic powder

pinch nutmeg

1 tsp finely grated lemon peel

2 Tbs basil leaves--chiffonade

pinch salt

1/4 tsp white pepper

1 egg

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

mix everything together until evenly incorporated.  place in refrigerator until using.  can be made up to a day in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.

to assemble

small bowl of water and pastry brush

flour

semolina flour or cornmeal

it is important that your dough is rolled out thin, because you are using two pieces. it doesn't have to be as thin as a won ton wrapper, but it should be close to it.  if you are using a pasta machine, roll the pasta to the second thinnest setting.

place 1 sheet of pasta, cut into strips 2" wide and as long as you like on your work surface. make sure your surface is dusted with flour to prevent sticking.  place filling with a teaspoon in the center of the dough, leaving room for even border on all sides. brush the dough, where you are going to seal the top piece, with water.  place a second piece of dough on top.  press around the filling with your fingers until you have a nice seal.  stamp with your ravioli cutter, cut with a knife, roller or cookie cutter to make uniform ravioli.  press the seams one more time.  place on a cookie sheet sprinkled with a bit of semolina or cornmeal to prevent sticking.  use immediately, or freeze for future use.

this recipe is being linked up to 

click here to see what other great recipes are being made with king arthur flour

*full disclosure...i received a coupon for a 5lb bag of flour from king arthur flour for agreeing to participate in this challenge.

you can also find me at the hearth and soul blog hop

cannelloni

after dinner

hubster leaned in real tight

and whispered

you make a great

lasagna

this is delicious

however

lasagna it is not

cannelloni

(printable recipe)

(adapted from mario batali)

fresh pasta sheets--boiled and shocked in ice water

for filling:

olive oil

1/2 lb ground pork

1/2 lb lean ground beef

1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

1 generous Tablespoon flour

1 cup milk

1 egg--lightly beaten

pinch freshly grated nutmeg

salt and pepper to taste

glug enough olive oil to just cover the bottom of  skillet. add pork and beef and cook until no longer pink.drain off excess fat. stir in flour.  add milk and parmesan cheese. cook on low for about 10-15 minutes until thickened..  remove from heat, let cool a bit, then add egg, nutmeg salt and pepper. let cool completely while you boil pasta.

for tomato sauce:

use your favorite recipe or even a bottle sauce…you need only a little for this recipe

for besciamella:

3 Tbs unsalted butter

3 Tbs flour

1 1/2 cups milk

1/4 cup parmesan cheese

1/4 tsp nutmeg

pinch salt

melt the butter in a saucepan. whisk in the flour and cook for just a minute or two. do not brown.  whisk in milk and bring to a simmer.  as it begins to thicken, add the parmesan, nutmeg and salt.  the sauce is to be thickened, but not gooey. it is a sauce.

  to assemble:

place a bit of tomato sauce in the bottom of an oven safe dish

use a very generous tablespoon of meat for each cannelloni.  place meat in the center of the pasta sheet and spread evenly.  roll the pasta into a tube, leaving the ends open.  place in the prepared dish.  repeat with remaining meat and pasta.  once completed, cover in beciamella, swirl in a bit more tomato sauce.  sprinkle with parmesan cheese.  bake at 350 until heated through and the beciamella begins to bubble.

i am linking this up to

presto pasta nights
hosted at
debbie does dinner healthy

israeli couscous carbonara

we love carbonara around here

black pepper rocks!

 it is a great go to week night meal

it is quick

it is packed with goodies

and 

the ingredients are typical larder items

i first learned about carbonara when i was in college

"studying" in italy 

a cooking instructor said it is what people would enjoy

late night

after the cinema or visiting with friends

we have letterman

they have carbonara

this recipe is an adaptation based on what i had on hand and the fact that i was in the mood

for shrimp

israeli couscous carbonara

with shrimp
(printable recipe)

olive oil

1/3 cup onion--minced finely

1 1/3 cup israeli couscous

1 1/2 cups chicken broth

2 rashers of bacon--chopped in small pieces

white wine or broth or water

15 shrimp (approx) (raw, shelled and deveined)

1 Tbs minced chive

1 Tbs black pepper

1 egg

1/4 cup cream

parmesan cheese for serving

in a pot, pour a bit of olive oil. heat over medium heat and toss in onion.  cook onion until it becomes translucent.  toss in the israeli couscous and stir until it starts to brown a bit.  pour in the chicken stock, cover the pan and cook about 12 minutes or until the liquid has been fully absorbed.

meanwhile in a frying pan, cook the bacon until it just begins to crisp up.  pour in a bit of liquid (wine, chicken broth or water) to slow the cooking and make a bit of a sauce. not too much, no more than an ounce.  while the pan is still hot, toss in the shrimp and cook until just done. set aside for a minute.

in a bowl whisk together the egg, black pepper, cream and minced chive.  all at once, toss in the hot couscous (the hot pasta will cook the egg but keep it creamy) and stir well.  Add the warm shrimp and bacon and stir again. Serve immediately.

this will make a nice first course for 5 people or dinner for 3

i am linking to 

Tuesday Night Supper Club

and

Hearth and Home Blog Hop

spaghetti alla vodka

my grandmother was famous for her alla vodka 

but not exactly like this 

for one thing--she was a traditionalist

and used penne

she also didn't make her own tomato infused vodka

because

she was a widow

raising 5 kids

with limited amount of time on her hands 

not all sorts
like i do

our garden produced so many late harvest tomatoes
that

i found myself using them in a variety of ways

sundried, oven roasted, confit

and soaked in vodka

this is really simple.  peel tomatoes and cram into a jar, use a skewer to secure tomatoes if they start to float to the top.  fill the jar with vodka and store in the refrigerator for at least 5 days.  i make several jars because i like to use the tomatoes and the vodka for my sauce. leftover vodka is really great for a bloody mary pick me up.

spaghetti alla vodka
(printable recipe)

1 lb spaghetti or pasta of choice

olive oil

1/2 of small onion--finely diced

2 garlic cloves--finely diced

6-8 basil leaves--chiffonade

1 large tin peeled whole tomatoes or combination of vodka soaked tomatoes and tinned tomatoes to equal about 4 cups whole

1/2-1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 cup tomato soaked vodka (or other vodka you have on hand)

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup grated parmesan plus more for serving

cook pasta in salted water,  according to package instructions.  cook onions and garlic in olive oil over low heat.  meanwhile, place the tomatoes in a food processor or blender and pulse until it is smooth.  do not allow the onions and garlic to brown, but let them begin to soften and become translucent. at this point, add the tomatoes and vodka and let simmer for about  10-15 minutes.  add the basil, red pepper flakes and heavy cream and allow to heat through.  stir in parmesan, then toss drained pasta in.  if the sauce seems too thick,  use a bit of the pasta water.  shave a bit of parmesan on top of each individual serving, along with additional crushed red pepper, if you like spicy.  

i am linking this recipe to 

tuesday night supper club

and

hearth and soul blog hop

and
presto pasta nights

presto pesto

ages ago

hubster and i

were in san francisco

where my good friend mia and her husband christian

hosted us for dinner

we don't often get invited for home cooked meals

i frequently hear

"i couldn't possibly cook for you

i would be so embarrassed"

it makes me a little sad

because we eat normal food around here

and sometimes we even eat bad food

and i mean--spit it out before it kills you bad

my kitchen is like a laboratory for me

and

i hate waste

so, you can only imagine what i sometimes serve

under the guise of

nourishment

so,

i am always so grateful

when a brave friend

extends an invitation 

to break bread

mia treated us

to perfectly cooked pasta

coated in emerald green pesto

it was gorgeous

and delicious

i took really great photos

so i could feature this meal

but

i lost my card-thingy from my camera

and those memories remain only in my head

however

i make a bit of a mean pesto myself

armed with loads of basil from our garden

i whipped this up

and was treated

to 

a mock-mia dinner for two

pesto
(printable recipe)

*i use a mortar and pestle to make my pesto--but it is common to use a food processor. use whatever makes you most comfortable

3 cups--packed fresh basil leaves

1/2 cups toasted pine nuts

1 large garlic clove-coarsely chopped

2 cups grated parmesan cheese

pinch of sea or kosher salt

zest of 1 lemon

pinch of crushed red peppers

1/2 cup or so of extra virgin olive oil

because i use a mortar and pestle, i have to do this in "batches".    place the coarsely chopped garlic in the mortar.  sprinkle the salt over and grind to a paste.  next, add in the basil.  adding a handful of basil at a time, grind with the pestle against the side of the bowl.  continue this until all the basil has been smooshed.  repeat this procedure with the pine nuts, adding a few tablespoons at a time, then the cheese.  slowly stir in the olive oil, lemon zest and crushed red pepper.

if using on pasta, cook the pasta according to package instructions.  reserve a few tablespoons of pasta water.  in a skillet, heat the reserved water and the pesto on low.  toss in the cooked pasta and warm until all is coated. use more cooking liquid if desired. top with a bit more cheese

I am linking up to

Tuesday Night Supper Club

and

Two for Tuesdays

Tuesday Night Supper Club--Pasta with Chicken, Sundried Tomatoes, and Broccoli Rabe

we eat pasta once a week

and it seems it happens on tuesdays more often than not

i can't help it

it is so versatile

quick

easy

cheap

yummy

a nation of italians endorse it

and so shall i

Linguine with Chicken, Sundried Tomatoes, and Broccoli Rabe
(printable recipe)

olive oil

2 whole garlic cloves

1/4 cup thinly sliced onions

1 bunch broccoli rabe--stem ends removed

1/2 cup sundried tomatoes packed in oil--sliced--reserving the oil

cooked chicken breast (i pan fry thinly pounded chicken breasts in a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper)...trader joes sells a flavorful caesar chicken that would work nicely in a pinch.

1 lb linguine--cooked in salted water

1/4 cup white wine, chicken broth or pasta water

1 tsp black pepper

1 Tbs unsalted butter

salt to taste

shaved or grated parmesan cheese

pour a thin layer of olive oil to coat the bottom of a large frying pan.  toss in whole garlic cloves and cook until toasted brown.  remove the garlic and throw away.  toss in the onions and the broccoli rabe and cook until the broccoli begins to brighten and soften.  add the sundried tomatoes, the tomato oil and the chicken. when you see that the broccoli and onion are beginning to look like they might be over-cooking, toss in the wine or other liquid.  cook to reduce and make a bit of a sauce.  drop the cooked pasta in and toss to coat.  add the knob of butter and the pepper. taste for salt.  stir in a little parmesan cheese, but save the heavier hand for serving.

EAT UP!

Tuesday Night Supper Club- Tortelli with Butter and Sage

i'm on a bit of a pasta jag lately

i can't really explain it

except that dishes like this 

are magic in the food pyramid department

protein check

carb check

dairy check

add a salad and you are golden

this is not an easy recipe

i admit it

unless you buy pasta sheets

or use wonton wrappers

(giada does, why shouldn't you?)

but it is really good

cheesy and fresh

Tortelli with Buttery Sage Sauce

modified from mario batali

(printable recipe)

1 1/2 lbs pasta dough

8 oz fresh ricotta**

(or store bought if you are not an obsessive person like i am quickly becoming)

1 1/2 cups freshly grated parmesan

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

1/4 cup finely chopped italian parsley

zest from 1 lemon grated on a microplane

salt and pepper

4 Tbs unsalted butter

8 fresh sage leaves

4 Tbs cream 

divide pasta into 4 pieces, roll each one out through the thinnest setting a pasta machine.  lay the sheets on a lightly floured work surface and cover with a damp kitchen towel. 

make the filling:  in a large bowl combine the ricotta, 1 cup of parmesan, the eggs, nutmeg, lemon zest and parsley and mix until thoroughly blended.  Season with salt and pepper and set aside.  

cut the pasta into 3" squares, cutting only 4 or 5 at a time. place a generous teaspoon of the filling in the center of each and fold the dough to form a triangle.  press the edges together to seal. bring the two bottom points together and pinch to seal. transfer to a baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel. 

bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt generously.  

meanwhile, make the sauce.  In a saute pan, melt the butter, add the sage leaves and let the butter get a little brown..do not let it burn. add the cream and let simmer just to thicken slightly. 

cook the pasta in briskly boiling water for about 3-4 minutes. using a slotted spoon, drain the pasta well and transfer to the butter sauce.  toss to coat and add the remaining 1/2 cup parmesan and cook over low heat until the pasta is well coated.  serve immediately.

**i sometimes find that regular grocery store ricotta can be a bit watery...i usually drain it for a few hours or overnight in cheesecloth, a colander or coffee filter.

EAT UP!

Tuesday Night Supper Club--Paglia e Fieno

if firenze holds my heart

then

roma holds my mind

many years ago

on a warm afternoon

guidebook in hand

i found myself 

in rome

and

wandering

off the beaten track

and i was hungry

because

wandering can do that to a girl

i had been making my way towards the ghetto

because fried artichokes

are what dreams are made of

but i was silly

because it was saturday

and they honor the sabbath 

in the ghetto

so i explored a bit more

and found

a charming restaurant

built in the substructure of the old teatro di pompeo

where the roman senate met

and where caesar was killed

and where i tried my very first

paglia e fieno 

it means straw and hay

and it is a pasta dish

that makes my mind wander

and my heart sing

Paglia e Fieno
(printable recipe)

While this recipe is rich, I have made it a lot less rich by reducing the amount of dairy and substituting 1/2&1/2 for the cream

1/2 lb    fettucine

1/2 lb   spinach fettucine

olive oil

2 large garlic cloves, smashed but kept whole

2 Tbs    unsalted butter

1/4 cup  diced pancetta

3 Tbs    finely chopped shallots

1 1 /2 cups sliced crimini or porcini mushrooms

1/2 cup  frozen or fresh peas

3/4  cup dry white wine

1/2 cup half and half

finely grated parmesan cheese

salt and pepper

cook pasta in boiling salted water. meanwhile, make sauce.  heat a large skillet and pour in enough olive oil to make a very thin layer.  drop in the garlic and cook until the garlic browns.  remove the garlic and throw away.  put heat on low and toss in pancetta.  do not let the pancetta crisp up.  add the shallots and after a few minutes, pour in about 1/4 cup of the wine, and let it absorb. toss in the mushrooms. as they begin to soften and cook, drop in the peas.  add the remaining wine, the half and half, and the butter, and slowly simmer to thicken a bit.  Add the cooked pasta and toss to coat.  add as much parmesan as you like...but it doesn't need much. don't add salt and pepper until after you add the cheese.

EAT UP!

* the restaurant in Rome is called Da Pancrazio

an enchanted evening

I think the best way to discover a village, town, or country is to experience the people who live there.  This culinary journey I am on with my sister and mom provided that opportunity for us.  We are Italian and know what our American experience is as Italians. The food is always plentiful and good, the conversations always a decibel above what is necessary. But we have gotten lazy in some of our traditions, and it was nice to cook and break bread in Italian homes. It gave us perspective and renewed energy to cherish traditional recipes, to not waste anything, and to grow or find the freshest available ingredients.

I found a kindred spirit in Elena.  Elena owns an agriturismo in the hills of Romagna.  She lives among the olive trees in a 150 year old farmhouse with a very modern kitchen.  She is adorable and an amazing cook.  Shortly after we arrived, she had us working.  While her kitchen was modern, her utensils were not.  She doesn't own a whisk or a vegetable peeler.  I thought third degree burns were forming on my sister's hand while trying to whisk hot bechamel over a high flame with a salad fork.  She survived and so did the sauce.  We used it to make quite possibly the best lasagna verde al forno I will ever eat.

My job was to make the lasagna sheets.  It took me about 20 minutes of kneading and another 20 minutes of rolling before Elena gave me the thumbs up.  She was impressed with my technique, but not so impressed that I exerted myself so much, I looked as if I had just run a 10k.  It was very warm in the kitchen....that's my story and I am sticking to it!
Making and rolling dough by hand is not child's play.



We cooked for about 3 hours making a wonderful bolognese sauce, bechamel, pasta dough, chicken cacciatore and a tomato bruschetta appetizer.

I am a huge fan of Mario Batali and use his recipes quite often.  But I will tell you...his lasagna al forno does not hold a candle, not even a birthday candle, to Elena's.  She is a master.  Her lasagna is a minimum of 5 layers.  She likes 7, but we were a bit too heavy handed with the bolognese in the first 2 layers. We were unchapeoned and assumed the lasagna would only be 2 or 3 layers max.  What a mistake.  I loved this dish so much that I am almost afraid to make it again. Afraid I will taint the perfect memory.

Seriously...A-Mazing.

We cooked, we laughed, and laughed a lot more. Elena is so charming. But what was enchanting about the evening was our meal.
Elena's farmhouse dining room looks like what is portrayed in old movies.  A man rides his horse up to the local tavern, it's raining outside and the dark doorway opens up to a dimly-lit but  inviting room with large tables topped with lanterns.  Wine and bread sit on the table and all around it seem genuinely happy.   Joining us for dinner was Elena's daughter.  She helped her mom set the table and serve the amazing dinner we enjoyed.

Our evening was not only pleasant but a great deal of fun. The conversation was lively and the food was perfect.  The wine was simple.  It didn't have to be an expensive bottle or the perfect match to the food, it just trailed along with our meal and that was fine with me.  The chicken cacciatore was delicious.  Chicken cacciatore was the very first meal I made on my own when I was a little girl. I never make it anymore and I know my husband would enjoy it.  I am putting it back in the rotation.  She also used all the parts I never use. The wings, the legs, the thighs. What a bore I am.  Those are going back in the rotation too.  And let's be honest, they are nice on the pocketbook.
After the food portion of dinner, we had dessert and digestives.  Dessert was a meringue semi-freddo.  My mom and sister passed on the dessert, big mistake. But I am not that rude, so I indulged freely.

Semi-freddo is a really simple dessert.  Using meringue simplifies it a bit more.

Then came the digestives.  Again, as in all households and restaurants we visited before it, out came the limoncello and nocino.

 And, a new favorite, and something that I am definitely going to make...brandied cherries.  The only sadness I have is that they take 3 years to soak. So, 3 years from now, I will be enjoying brandied cherries.  Maybe I will make a vintage version and a non-vintage version.  At any rate, I will have to wait until next year to obtain the fresh cherries.  I will worry about the aging process then.

This lesson and meal were very meaningful to me.  It showed me another way.  I made new friends, and I was sad to leave.  I intend on nurturing a relationship with Elena, as she is someone I want to know better.

Elena's Ragu alla Bolognese

1 carrot

1 celery stalk

1 medium onion

1/2 lb ground pork

1 lb ground beef

1 cup red wine

1 cup tomato sauce

1-2 cups vegetable or meat broth

extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Mince onion, carrot and celery rather finely.  Put them in a pot with enough olive oil to cover the base of the pot.  Add a pinch of salt.  Fry lightly for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. You do not want the vegetables to brown.  Add the minced meat and mix well until the meat browns a little.  Stir occasionally.  When the meat if cooked, add the red wine and let it cook into the meat and excess evaporate.  Add the tomato sauce to color the sauce and then flavor with a bit of pepper.  Cook the sauce very slowly for 2-3 hours, covered.  Stir occasionally and add hot broth if the meat begins to look dry.  Use this sauce for pasta or lasagna.